2007 First Bicycle Trip: 6; Northern Baja

Northern Baja:                                             (stage 4)

The roads have gotten a lot narrower in Mexico, and so I spent a few times jumping off the bike to avoid passing traffic, especially if trucks were crossing next to me. The rule of the bigger vehicles right of way applies on those roads and Shakespeare’s
¨to be or not be¨ is translated into “to bail or not to bail”. Those were some minor incidents though and in general I felt safe riding down Baja.

 South on route 3 from Tecate is one of the major wine growing areas of the country, which is around Valle De Guadelupe, also called the Napa Valley, or Tuscany of Mexico. The area produces 90% of Mexico’s wine and is well worth visiting. Of course I had to stop and do some tasting myself, with the Rancho Sordo Mudo campground conveniently just around the corner. There I met John, the only other person on this location, who was on his way to Mulegé, his winter quarters. It is always great to meet fellow travelers like him, including his 4-legged companion Cortez, even if his form of transportation was a truck pulling an RV. Instead of going to bed after sundown, I got invited for food, wine and great conversation. Better yet, we are still in contact today.

After turning south on route 1, I had no need for a map anymore as only one paved road leads the way down the peninsula to Cabo San Lucas. The road was pretty busy again around Ensenada, but with a very generous shoulder. I stopped a bit further south of town at Punta Banda and set up camp at La Joya Campground. It was a great location directly by the Pacific Ocean, and the sound of the waves could be heard all night long. The downside of this prime spot was the cold ocean breeze and the foggy wet marine layer in the morning, but still nice enough to stay for 2 nights. The nearby attraction was an overlook and blowhole, which catapults water up a cliff from the waves down below.

I continued on over rolling scenic hills, past some more vineyards, then into the San Quintin Valley, an agricultural area with miles of plantations of onions, tomatoes, strawberries. . . .

 I stopped south of San Quintin and had lunch near the beach at the Cielito Lindo restaurant, which I still remember rather well. I was going to stay for 2 nights, but lunch didn’t stay very long and I got pretty sick, as well as doing all the exercises such as running to the John, that come with food poisoning. Still being a bit under the weather, I left the next day as this was the only place to get something to eat and I surely wasn’t going to have a second meal from that kitchen. During the whole trip, I ate from all kinds of strange places, but this was the only time the stomach couldn’t handle it.

I ate Ramen Noodles for breakfast with lots of water in anticipation on how my stomach would react. All good, ah. . . .  Still not feeling 100%, I took off as the road followed the coast for a few more miles, then turning inland and uphill. The countryside started to look a lot more like desert again as does most of Baja. On the way, I was passing one of many Army checkpoints, which are stationed on Route 1 checking vehicles and passengers. It was only a 33-mile ride to El Rosario, a town of 1700 people, but it took a lot of effort getting there. I checked into a small motel for $20, did the shower and laundry routine and got some rest. . . .

Until next time...

    Tony Bike