Northern California
It
was a spectacular first day riding into California, through the Prairie Creek
Redwoods State Park with the Giant Redwood trees towering over 300 feet above (the Giant Redwoods are the tallest, while
the Sequoias are larger in diameter). Needless to say, it was challenging
to keep an eye on the road.
Since
the southern Oregon coast, riding had gotten much cooler as most of the day a
layer of fog would roll onto shore from the Pacific. Some days the sun stayed
out of sight altogether. This kept the temperature in the 60’s throughout the
day, in the upper 40’s at night and because of all this moisture, it kept the
gear damp all the time, which was a bit of a nuisance. Although with the fog
sweeping through the trees and over the beaches, it made it all look very
mysterious with the ever changing landscape.
Most
of times the campsites are located in state parks away from towns, but Arcata –
Eureka was an exception. Riding down Main Street in Arcata, I thought to have
taken a wrong turn as a very liberal city emerged ahead of me. The sidewalks
carried pedestrians with dreadlocks, wearing clothing that resembled rags, and
my nostrils inhaled an alternative smell of smoke. The local KOA was rather
civilized though, with all modern amenities, so I was able to use a washing
machine instead of laundering the clothes under the shower.
As
101 curved inland after Eureka, the fog disappeared and the days got warmer,
but the nights still stayed cool. A lovely detour on the “Avenue of the Giants”
through more Redwood forests was another nice break from the fast moving 101.
The campsite as well went back to normal, as I pitched the tent amongst
Redwoods and giant green ferns.
In
Leggett, Highway 1 branches off from 101 and winds back to the coast over a
couple of hills. The proximity of the coast could be felt immediately as the
temperature dropped and the fog was rolling in again, or was I riding back into
the fog?
The
3 days riding from Fort Bragg to Bodega Bay were spectacular, with incredible
views and more curves than a twizzler. The downside came from narrow roads, no
shoulders and impatient car drivers. From this, I concluded that this stretch
should be enjoyed from the seat of a motorcycle not a bicycle! There was a
positive side though. With this shoulderless road, there was no room for junk
to accumulate and the chance to catch a punctured tire was zero!!
After
this white knuckle ride, the roads got broader again and with a much
anticipated added shoulder. The ride then followed the tranquil road along
Tomales Bay to Point Reyes Station and Samuel Taylor Campsite. This was the
last campsite amongst the Redwoods, but one that will not be very easily
forgotten. Just while sipping my morning coffee and looking about, I heard this
cricking noise coming from across the access road and watched a tree in slow
motion crashing toward the tents, landing just about 100 feet above the camp. AHHH!
Guess I didn’t need the extra caffeine to wake me up anymore.
Now
it was only a short distance to the big San Francisco Metropolitan area and
before long, the streets were jam packed with cars. There are some bike routes,
but they are rather poorly marked and only seem to be known to locals.
After the challenging navigation of city roads
and a few nasty comments from ever so time strapped drivers, it was a very
relaxing stay for a couple of nights at Chris & Gris’s place in San Rafael. (Thanks again for the hospitality).
The extra day I spent with Gerhard, the former “Fearless Leader” from
Muller-Martini, taking a ferry ride to Angel Island State Park for some hiking.
Unfortunately the fog never lifted, so I was able to see Alcatraz and downtown
San Francisco only through a milky like soup, as well as only a partial Golden
Gate Bridge, but more importantly, we were able to catch up with the past and contemplate
the future.
Until
next time from a bit farther down the road,
Tony
Bike
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