Korea Bicycle Adventure 2017, Stage 1

2017 Korea Bicycle Adventure:

Korea Adventure Route

1^st. Leg, Seoul - Busan

A thing I have learned over the years, the “Travel bug” is real and contagious. As every time, a cyclist loaded down with panniers and tent passes my eyesight, I wonder where he’s heading, or came from.  The next step that follows my inner thoughts is playing with scenarios of which part of the globe to cycle next.

On previous trips to Korea, I learned about the “Riverside Bike Trails” along the 4 rivers, while visiting the Tourist Office. After thinking about a Korean bicycle tour for a couple of years, it became reality this spring.

Leaving the rainy and cold conditions of Canada’s Pacific Northwest with Kristie by my side didn’t break my heart at all. The flight from Vancouver to Seoul was rather smooth and pleasant, aboard an Air Canada 787 Dreamliner.

And a DREAM it was!

The initial sight at approaching Incheon Airport was a bit discouraging, looking at the air pollution. Nowadays, Seoul doesn’t get high marks for its air quality!

Hazy Incheon Airport Arrival

Passing Immigration & Customs was a breeze, and then the friendly PyeongChang Mascots for the 2018 Winter Olympics are greeting the travelers at the baggage claim.

PyeongChang 2018 Mascot

Swiftly we transferred by bus to Insadong, a ditrict of Seoul. Many tourists are flocking to this area, as it is showcasing traditional Korean style houses from the past, as well as lots of restaurants, cafés and shopping opportunities.  Although only a small area is left preserved, the rest gave way to high rises.

Insadong  with Namsan Tower

Again, I didn’t bring my own bike and was looking for a bicycle shop. With the help of Google, I found “Route Bicycle” a Trek Dealer and the friendly staff organized a Trek FX2 overnight for my journey. (The same bike had served me well in Australia!)

Friendly TREK Dealer in Seoul

Officially I started the ride at Jinsun Café, Bookstore and Art Gallery. Jin who is also a cycling enthusiast has his café conveniently located next to the Gyeongbokgung Palace.

The Palace is the largest of the 5 palaces, originally built in 1395, destroyed by Imperial Japan in the 16^th century – rebuilt – destroyed again by Imperial Japan in the 20^th century and now being rebuilt again.

After taking a few good-bye photos, I headed down Sejong-daero, past the monumental statue of Admiral Yi Sunsin towards the Han River to join the bicycle path.

Seoul to Chungju Dam

Entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace

Temple Guards

Admiral Yi Sunsin

This is what I’ve been waiting for, to experience the 100’s of kilometers of cycle ways, without any motorized traffic. 
Not entirely sure what to expect from the bike routes, now I witnessed in person, the hype is justified! Roads, tunnels,bridges… just for bicycles, how cool is that!!

Bike path along Han River

While in the vicinity of towns, there are plenty of cafes in lovely locations to stop and relax. Once out of town, the eyes are re-tuned to scenery and nature.

All the way to Chungju, which is the end of the Han River section (180km), the path is often on river levies, but also winds through orchards, rice paddies and agriculture fields.

Han River Bridge

Paldang Dam

Han River

Chungju Dam is a Hydroelectric Dam, the second largest in the country and largest concrete dam. Although not as impressive as I expected.

Chungju Dam

The biggest challenge the first few days was finding accommodation and restaurants. Once the Metropolitan Seoul is left behind, English is only very seldom spoken and most of the sign postings are in Gibberish. By making a cheat sheet of what the signs are supposed to look like, in conjunction with the “Kakao Map” App, I was able to compare and find my way. Although the App is in Gibberish, the red GPS dot was my local guide to locate addresses around towns.

 

Accommodation Cheat Sheet

Menu Cheat Sheet

The end result after the "Menu Cheat Sheet" presentation

My personal Guide the "KakaoMap" App

From Chungju, after a short distance the river is temporarily left behind while crossing the Sobaek Mountains. At first the road is winding slowly higher, passing some waterfall and some ever present Pavilions and Buddhist Temples.

Heading south is the only longer uphill, with stretches of 10% incline to the 548m Ihwaryeong Pass. On this section, the bike route follows the regular road for about 70km, but with a nice shoulder to ride on and hardly any traffic, this makes it such a pleasure to cycle in this country.

Chungju to Andong

Ihwaryeong Pass

After the Mountain Range, the Bike Path started to follow the Nakdong River, with a length of 525km, the countries longest.

Instead of heading south directly to Busan, I turned east to Andong, where the trail for this section of the river starts. Although it was a 150km out and back ride, the scenery along the river was ever so beautiful.

This entire stretch, the riding is all on a separate trail; the eyes can wander around and enjoy the surroundings without worrying about traffic.

Andong Vicinity

Korea has 4 times the landmass of Switzerland and 8 times the population. It would seem to be a crowded country, but at times it is still possible to ride for a couple of hours without seeing another soul on the trails.

Oldest & largest Brick Pagoda in Korea (8th. Century,16.8m)

Longest Pedestrian Bridge in Korea 387m, Andong

Andong to Busan

Most of the writings in Korea are in Gibberish and it is almost impossible to tell the kind of restaurant, well…, but I can always spot a Café!

Some strange Final Resting Places!

South along the Nakdong River, the area becomes more populated, which requires road constructions, flood control and accommodations for those huge industrial plants of Samsung & LG. 

LG Plant in Gumi

Some Motels I skipped!

During the Korean presidential elections this spring, I experienced a new form of campaigning… rather entertaining at 7 o’clock in the morning! Guess the early bird gets the vote!

  

Everyday I was elated getting up wondering  what the day would bring and was never disappointed with the endless bicycles roads, temples, sceneries...   

Temple Guardians

Nakdong River View

Tulip Festival

The day riding into Busan was the first day of a slight drizzle, but it was still comfortable for riding. By now it was in the later part of April and the temperatures have been perfect so far, day after day. In general they ranged in between 12 to 20 degrees Celsius.

Floating Pedestrian Bridge

Joining the Busan City Traffic

This 1st leg from Seoul to Busan was almost 800km and most of it on a Bicycle Path. So far, this was the most relaxing touring experience, ever!

Keep the tires rolling, Tony